Apartment Renovation Ep.1 / How to lay Laminate Flooring

I have spent the last few days making some renovations in this small apartment For now, I have installed wood flooring and I am about to finish laying the doors. This is the first video in a series of five or six videos I will show you how to lay and install wooden floors. First, I created a web app design to allocate space And look at what the apartment will look like in the end.

This is the apartment floor plan, where we can see their distribution. You can see the living room, kitchen, bathroom and two bedrooms. By dragging this blue dot, we can move around the interior design using this 3D view. We can also select an inside view from eye level. These types of applications are extremely useful for visualizing our projects, Creating walls and furniture is very easy. Laying wood floors is a relatively simple task, especially if the floor is in good standard and in good condition.

There are leveling compounds that can be used in extreme cases, But this is not the case here. First we must remove all the pieces of cement or glue from the corners and the floor itself, As well as cleaning the entire surface. After cleaning, I will lay a substrate on the floor. We don’t need to cover the entire floor at once. In order to avoid breaking it, I will continue to add slices as needed. For best results, the insulation layer should be raised 2 cm above the walls. This kind of insulation layer is good for keeping away on moisture, As well as compensate defects on the ground. These are the floors that I will install. It’s gray and saw cut imitation oak grain. As you know, this type of flooring has a fixing system to hold the panels together. In order to get them as close to the wall as possible, I will cut the male side on all sides that touch the wall using the plate cutter, Let the female side point towards us so that we can continue to put the rest of the plates.

I put some 9mm wood sublimation to act as spacers in order to avoid floor expansion problems. In order to connect the paintings to each other, We must raise and tilt the board that we will insert, Then drop it down with the push towards the other board. If all goes well, the installation system itself will be combined into both pieces So hardly you see where they connect. In order to measure the last piece, we just have to flip it and mark it, Leave the same separation distance to the wall due to expansion. As you can see, this type of sheet cutter is easy to use, It will keep you from leaving too much dust at home.

It is recommended that the last painting not less than 20 cm, You can disconnect the first board as much as it takes to avoid this problem. In the next row, we can start with the rest of the piece that we have already cut. It is important that the commas do not match. The following panels are more complicated, because we have to adore two sorts instead of one. There are many ways, but what I usually do is install the longer side by tilting the panels Now I will use this click object, which you can easily find in number stores. Contains rubber part With a screen to avoid damaging the panels when pushed To previous panels By doing this, you can move the previous row, That is why it is important to maintain the laying of separations between the floors and the wall. To put another panel from the next rows, I will use this steel pull ruler as it is easy to find in hardware stores. We put the required insulation strips, By following the same steps we can complete the rest of the room If there are not many corners or doors in your room.

This insulating layer has self-adhesive tape to bring the parts together, If you don’t have it, you can use adhesive tape instead, making sure the strips don’t overlap. Here’s the first difficulty I have to measure the gap between the panel and the beginning and end of the wall thickness With space deduction for expansion In this case I will use rag to cut to the desired piece Something is self-evident The floor should be installed in the same direction as the main light source in the house, Usually windows, but it’s not a problem if you want to choose a different direction. The same thing happens here. After measuring, I put the plate as before I will leave the space required for the door separator between the floors and the bathroom floor. I also left an 8mm gap between the floor and the door frame, In my case, the front door was already installed, And at the bottom of it left a gap for the floors, So this time I’ll start laying the floor in the other direction, Because otherwise, it will be impossible to move the last panel under the door.

It’s not the best option, but it’s not a problem if you have to put some floorboards like this. Sazel door protection jars and continued to lay floorboards. Since this is a small apartment, I’ll try to put floorboards in one piece Without door bars under the doors. I will exceed the allowed length But I left a big enough vacuum because of the expansion, so you should be fine. Better appearance of flooring without dividing between panels at doors. Making house cleaning easier! In order to do this, I measure the required shear locations, Leave the same vacuum in all directions in anticipation of expansion, including door detection.

In the bedrooms I must do the same as the former I had to cut the first panel with the measurements I got from the panel under the door. Now all that’s left is to install the prominent edge I thought about bringing my own portable workshop, which I think would be very useful for finishing the renovation. To cut the edge of the edge I will use a sliding head saw and a dust extraction. It will work automatically whenever you run the saw, making the task much easier. First, cut off the excess part of the insulation layer, at the same height as the flooring. There is a cover profile of the same color as the floor but here I will use this profile coated with a waterproof layer Now I will start cutting the profile to connect the corners together We can trim the corner at the back slightly to match the wall better. The other end of the joint is straight, but can also be cut at an angle. I will put some strong adhesives. It’s a dense product that dries quickly, The profile will be mounted on the wall I will put some adhesives on the corners of the profile We can use screws in uneven parts of the wall, if any.

We drown them in the profile and cover the hole with white wax. There are many ways to finish the pieces that touch the door detection. this is what I do: I will cut a piece at a 45 degree angle Then bring an excess piece and cut it again at a 45 degree angle Then cut upright with the same thickness of the profile I’ll use a quick adhesive to collect the pieces together Using a soft cooler thin the front corner This way I can cover the profile head using the same profile.

The other way is to paint the roads cut with white I have another problem I needed a thin piece of flooring to cover a vacuum I cut it in the portable workshop, and I remove part of the fixing pad so I can install it from the top, Using fast adhesive There are areas where the base doesn’t work well because the wall is uneven, It is advisable not to press the profile on the wall too much Before putting the last paint layer on the walls, We can fill these blanks with plaster. So we can paint on them later. If the floor is uneven, you may have to trim the profile a bit, It is best to stick some joints together before placing them on the wall, as in this case. Finally, I’ll put this metal corner to finish the staircase area. Secure it by drilling and placing screws at the edge of the drawer.

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